gazzacov

Nice install there! What servo's did you go with? I'm using the Savox digital metal & titanium gears, brilliant, move as fast as i can move the sticks! The wings are a 30 second job, only one screw in the base at the rear, & peg on the front. Everything else just slots in place with cf pins. Having flown mine for a few months I can say that it flies fantastic. Vertical acceleration is awesome, knife edge is the easiest of anything I've flown, all the other manouvres you can think of are no problem. Makes me look a far better pilot than I am, hehe!

EDFrules

My buddy Blake chose Futaba 3156's for the ailerons and 9551's on rudder/elev. He reports the ailerons just droop when the power is off. Not much friction there, just like a GS bird! Pin hinges rock! I'll be doing the same for my Wind S 50 mono.

gazzacov

Ooh, you have a wind s? Thats another bird on my wishlist! Either that or the sebach. Need a bigger hangar... Futaba are good, most of my warbirds a kitted with them, though the savox beat them hands down for speed and noise. Not sure how available they are over the pond, but you should check them out. I'm usually reluctant to stray away from what I trust with servo's, but flew a couple of big planes fitted with these and was very impressed. Haven't used another brand since!

EDFrules

I've never tried a Savox servo before. Futabas do great by me for precision centering. My biggest pet peeve besides a weak gear train. I don't mind spending the money on a good servo, especially if it centers well. I'll have to get some into my LHS(also my employer) and test them out. Thanks for the tip!

gazzacov

I'm using a mixture of Savox SH0257MG (ailerons) & Savox SC1258TG on rudder & elevator. Very smooth, faster than I can move the sticks, so highly recommended. Have heard some of the smaller ones suffer with noise, but never been a problem for me. Also never had one fail, despite a few being in quite high speed terminals! Been flying a little pylon racer i built this last few weeks, It's good for over 100mph, & makes a change from the bigger stuff at 1m span. Getting back to it with the Miss Wind this weekend, practicing for my BMFA 'B' certificate. Happy landings!

aquaanox

hey guys - my kit came with these thingy's ... see pic.. no instructions for where they go. Whats this for ??? thanks

gazzacov

They are covers for the servo output arms on the wings. To be honest, I dont know anyone that used them!

aquaanox

On mine there is a small gap (a couple of mm) in the standoff on the rear of the top wig after the carbon pin is fully inserted. I cant seem to get rid of it.. Anyone else notice this ? thx.

gazzacov

Presuming you're fitting them the right way round, as I don't think you can get them the wrong way? I never noticed this much on mine, maybe 0.5mm at most. If its the same both sides, make sure the bottom wing is seated correctly, as that could push it out a bit. Is the gap the same in the centre top?

aquaanox

its just the rear standoff, im gonna have to put a little wood shim there as recommended on rcuniverse.. On another note, i got savox servos all the way around and man they are SUPER NOISY at center (with even the slightest pressure). not expecting that, but look like this is quite normal for savox servos based on some searches.

Angler-Hi

Gazz, I know it's been a while, lol. Nice video friend. Came out great!

Mike

Wingsdownunder

I have this new biplane which I have fitted with Turnigy 5055 430kv motor with Turnigy 100amp opto speed controller and using 6 cell Turnigy 5000mah battery with a 16x12 apc prop. The problem that I have en counted is that as the battery's get about 10 flights, both the battery and motor get very warm and the battery starts to swell. On checking the amps draw last time it was 85amps. I believe this is far to high how can I fix this problem? I also have the Sebart Wind 50E mono with a Hacker motor and the same set up in ESC and Battery and Prop as the Miss wind and I do not have a overheating problem.

kyleservicetech

Question?
Which Hacker motor are you running with that setup?

Also, running your parameters through www.motocalc.com, the motocalc opinion suggests that this motor will run extremely hot, some 400 degrees F at full throttle. Also, motocalc predicts motor efficiency drops to about 70%, a value that is awful for this size motor. Dropping the propeller to a 14X10 or a 15X10 would bump the motor efficiency up to 88% or 85%, much more reasonable for this size motor. And, you'd not loose a lot in performance.

The 14X10 would run about 1400 Watts, pulling about 60 Amps out of your battery.

Problem is, a Bipe might have an issue with a smaller prop. What is the diameter of your models cowl? Most Bipes are "Draggy" models, which suggests the motor will not unload as much at full power, as compared to a very streamlined very fast model.

Wingsdownunder

The hacker motor is a A50-16s which works fine in the no1 model the Turnigy 5055 is a higher kv the hacker is 380kv and the 5055 430kv. But that the one I am having problems with.

kyleservicetech

Yeah
I've got the Hacker A50-16S motor, running on a 7S2P A123 battery pack and a 16X12 APC-E prop. That A123 pack would be close to the 6S LiPo. That power setup has several hundred flawless flights on it.

Note that the 380KV rating of the Turnigy motor is pretty close to the 430KV rating of the Hacker motor. Problem is, the power input to a prop varies widely with the RPM of that prop. Increase the RPM by 25% will double the watts input to the motor. And, if you're not careful, smoke out of the motor/esc/battery pack.

IMHO, that 70 Amp rating of the Turnigy motor is a little bit optimistic by the motor mfg. Any rating of perhaps more than 100 watts per ounce of motor weight is pushing the motor a bit. As for me, I'd not run that Turnigy motor over perhaps about 1100 or 1200 watts. (Same for the Hacker motor)

Running just about any brushless motor over say 150 watts per ounce of motor weight results in its efficiency dropping like a rock, and the net result is heat. A lot of it.

Wingsdownunder

I have sent a picture so you can see the cowl set up, thanks for the info so far I will try some props to see if that helps. Cheers Andrew...

kyleservicetech

Great looking model. The cowl issue should not be a problem with that model.

As indicated previously, try going down an inch or so in prop diameter and see what you get. Power input to a prop is proportional to the propeller diameter ration raised to the fourth power. So, going from a 16 to a 15 inch prop reduces the power input to about 75%, assuming the same RPM.

gazzacov

Hi all.
Thought this thread was dead ages ago, been so long! One thing I've noticed from experience is that, even for the same size or similar motor, turnigy motors are very inefficient in comparison to the hackers, hence more heat for a similar output. Ran my miss wind for over 100 flights on the hacker with never a problem, & since its 'demise', i'm using the same motor in my wind 's' with no problems. (miss wind is a better airplane in every respect though) I fly a spitfire on 6s with the same turnigy motor, & while very reliable over the past few years, it has always run on the hot side. (Using a 3 blade 13x8 prop)

Wingsdownunder

Thanks very much it's good to have some input from members that have found the similar problem.

kyleservicetech

Yeah, several years ago I had a model that recommended a name brand motor. The manual for the model had a warning in print "Do not touch the motor after a flight" because of the risk of burns to your fingers.

Lighat

Take a look at this:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ryM9T...e=channel_page

kyleservicetech

Yeah
That was an excellent excellent model airplane. Just don't understand why the mfg stopped making it.