Or over the side of the cockpit so they look like strips on the plane.

Yes, stripes in motion.

IT FLYS, IT FLYS. I flew the SE5A for the first time this morning. Had a few scary moments but that was more from pilot experence(read need more) than the plane. Next flight I hope to get the trim dialed in a litte better. Sence I hand launch the first flight is aways a hurry to get hand from launching to stick cause I never know what the plane will do. The SE5A just had a slight turn to the right and lots of climb, I got it leveled before it stalled. With the 2410-9 motor, 10x8 prop, and 2s lipo it seems to have plenty of power. It seems to have enough power to climb at a 45 degree angle.

I am thinking of adding strips to the plane. I thought about having Martin's striped drawers hanging over the side of the cockpit but I think I will just add white strips to the cowl.

cmon, paint on a pair of flapping boxers!

7car7...I saw that you posted a question about the struts at the other forum...If you look real close at the picture I posted on the previous page, you will notice the welds on the struts. I have referred to my Windsock Datafiles, and through the availible pictures and period drawings am certain that they were steel.

The reddish color you see in your photo is probably just primer. I am pretty sure that the Plane is to be an OEF (Oeffag/Austrian) built plane...whether or not they are to be black...I am not sure...but probably so. However, on your plane...which has the lozenge...and thus an Albatros built plane...will have all exposed metal surfaces painted grey. Whether this grey was "grey" or "grennish grey" (which I figure is close to RLM 02) is debatable.

Are you guys talking about "Bacon Stripes"? :D

Would that show that the pilot got so scaried in a dogfight he had to hang them out to dry?

spare pair...

degreen60, black and white checkering might look good on the cowling too. You can find various colors of checkering in Monocote trim sheets. You cut to fit. They're adhesive backed.

I saw that, but I was reffering to the outer struts, "V" struts. I've yet to see a good close up picture of those, and the ones I've seen just don't seem to show any welds. But I'm sure you're right, the outers would be metal also. Makes sense.

HA! I found an example with wood V struts!
http://www.proctor-enterprises.com/p..._schwind2w.jpg

:D
however, it's a model. Just like me, I guess the builder likes wood struts, and just wanted them that way. ;-)

I had to go 60 miles this afternoon and pick up the 2009 Sun Glow Red Harley Davidson Lowrider my wife bought for me. I just hate it when I have to do stuff like that!!! Ha ha!! Steve

Boy are you henpecked, had to get that instead of a WW1 R/C airplane.

WWI ace, photos of the Harley?

Helmut
 

I think a nice spiked WWI German helmut is in order here Boys!!! :D:D BTW, it might be hard transporting your plane to the field with that thing.:eek::rolleyes: Maybe you'll think of something! :rolleyes: Oh Yeah Steve, Let's see some pics (you lucky dog!). Martin

Wow, I thought I had a great wife for tollerating all my hobbies, but that's way beyond "tollerating". Looking forward to pics!

Nice!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

You will be like the "Red Baron of the Road"...:)

Yeah guys, I'm really lucky!! She has stuck with me through the good and the bad. I love the new bike!! I will try to get some pictures posted in the next few days. Steve

Camel ARF
 

http://www.bphobbies.com/view.asp?id...9&pid=C2490074

Here's a new one to check out!
steve

]

I do stand off scale but there are a couple of things that I would change on this. I don't like the looks of the 1" wheels on a WW1 plane. The guns look great but need covered on a Camel. It looks like the hump is on the plane for the guns but the guns are mounted on top of it. Love the brace wires.

Price looks good too. Wonder how much trouble it would be to put the guns under the hump cover, I may just have to find out. I would have to see the plane first but I suppect I would want to shorten the cowl too if I thought I could add enough weight under the cowl to keep CG in place. I have the Wattage Camel with a short cowl and I think it looks great on a quick turn the way the plane looks as if it swings around the prop.

DR1
 

http://www.wattflyer.com/photopost/d...flydr1_009.jpg

Here's my Electrifly DR1 Tripe, just finished this morning. Test flights in a little while.

steve

DRI
 

Very nice Steve! :cool: I have the same kit. I think it's going to be my winter project. :) I did, however, notice that you are going into combat with no machine guns! :eek: This is very dangerous as you know! :eek: Don't let degreen know! He's always looking for an easy kill. (Yeah Guys I know it's red) Martin

Martin is getting soft in his old age!! Steve

The guns are in the shop getting refitted, will be installed before any sorties.

steve

And now I have my SE5A to help my Camel to look for those red planes with black crosses.

Wattage Camel
 

Well Boys my second flight on my Wattage Camel should be this weekend. :D I fitted her with some decent tires and should be able to ROG without any problem.:D:D Hmmm I did mention I have Sir Percy (complete with mustache) flying her with loaded Vickers just looking for some fresh meat? ????:eek::D Gee has Marty gone over to the side of the Allies? :eek: Stay tuned everyone for the next episode...... Marty

Hi Marty,

I hope your Camel flies well. I just finished a "Benson" Albatros DV-A and its waiting for its first flight. Too bad we're a little to far apart. They would look great in a simulated dog-fight ( my Spandaus don't work yet, ammos hard to find).

By the way Marty, don't fly straight and level in a combat zone when there's Hun on your six.

where does one buy a wattage camel?

Watch the sales on here, rcgroup, and ebay. I see one now and then.

ahh

scalercflyer, I've had two of the Wattage Sopwith Camels. They're great little flyers with a 400 size brushless motor. here are a couple of photos of the ones I have. I did one to look like a German plane. You've probably seen these photos before. Cookie

I picked up a wattage sopwith a few months ago. Decided to cut my teeth on a Picomoth and Eflite jenny first. They came out fine, now I need the courage for this one. There seems to be alot more measuring and cutting than I am used to. Even the Guillow's bipes (three of them waiting on the shelf) seem less of a challenge.
Any advice?

Wattage Sopwith Camel advice?

Use a brushless motor. I use the Esskay 400XT which is an outrunner. GWS 9x5 DD prop. The kit motor doesn't have enough power to fly it with any authority. Put real wheels on it, like Williams Bros. vintage 3" wheels. The supplied wheels are too flimsy and they wobble like crazy under pressure (when rolling). I use a 3 cell LiPo battery in the range of from 1050 mah to 1500 mah. Mount the battery on the firewall, inside of the cowl, below the motor (to help to achieve the desired Center of Gravity. This kit comes with two part wings (wing halves) and they're connected by a small metal tube with rods running out of the ends of the tube. The tubes are then glued to the leading edge of the wings for strength. I used carbon fiber tubes instead of the supplied fiberglass tubes. Don't bother to put ailerons on it. I tried it and with the dihedral in the wings, it doesn't want to turn much with aileron control. It flies fine with rudder and elevator only.

I was thinking of making the sopwith with a replaceable motor mount set up like I did on the Moth. I can simply pull one motor/gearbox and replace it by removing a single retaining pin. I can go 180/400/BL in a few minutes (changing the ESC for BL is a bit longer).
As for wheels, I have the wheels from the Jenny to use, the Jenny got a set of plastic and foam ones the I liked better.

I am concerned about getting the dihedral right with the description for assembling the wings in the manual (I actually read it:tc:). Also, cutting out the area in the fuselage for the tail seems a bit difficult. Did Wattage rush these to production or what? Very crude compared to the others I did.

I expected the CG to be a trick with the short nose, are there any other surprises.

Not a big deal. Put a sheet of wax paper on the work bench. You just secure one half of the wing to the work bench, line up the dihedral brace along the front edge of the wing that's secured to the work bench, then hold the other half of the wing along the dihedral brace rod to make sure that the rods line up with the leading edges of both wing halves. THEN you glue the rod to the secured half of the wing first with 5 minute epoxy and hold it in place until it sets, making sure that it doesn't shift out of place so that the other half of the wing will still line up with the other section of the rod. Once the 5 minute epoxy is set good, you can lift up the wing with the rod glued to it and secure the other wing half and glue it using the same method. The bend in the metal tubing that holds the rods will establish your dihedral.

From what I recall, there is a flat area on the top back section of the fuselage that the horizontal stabilizer glues onto. Just check to make sure the surface is level before gluing the horizontal stabilizer onto the fuselage.

It's pretty straight forward. No surprises that I ran into. Of course, you'll want to secure your control rods so that they don't give or flex or bow when the servo is trying to control the rudder or elevator. I used nyrod tubes and secured them in place then ran the control wires through them.

Sack time.

I modified my Camel. I did not use the brace rods supplied with the plane for the wings but put CF strip in the lower wing. I put brace wires on the wings. The fuselage struts for the top wing have a wire running from front top to bottom rear that is removeable at the bottom rear. Front strut is glued so it don't move and when the wire is removed the rear strut can swing forward for wing to be removed. I used pull-pull controls to help keep the tail light. I have brace wire on the tail. I made new landing gear using bamboo skewers. Made new wheels using foam. I use 6 1800ma nimh batteries mounted under the cowl an upsidedown U over a 2410-09Y brushless. The batteries put the CG where it needs to be without adding extra weight. My cowl got tore on a bad landing(normal landing for me). I found the bottom of a large size bottle of Lysol disinfecting wipes almost a perfect fit. It is soft enough that the mold marks can be pushed out from the inside and anything on the outside can be sanded off. It is the white cowl in my picture.

Wattage Camel
 

Boys, I think you'll find plenty of info about this plane on e-zone and wattflyer. I modified mine with a little more dihedral in the wings based on a thread I read. I under stand it flies slowly. :) Just what this aging fighter pilot needs. ;) BTW I threw the stock motor and gearbox in my juke bin and used a cheapy BL motor. Glad I did. :D Now where is Steve's RED DRI.......? :eek: Martin

Red and White Camel
 

Wow Cookie!:D You JUST HAD TO PAINT that Camel red didn't you???!!!! :eek::eek: Now I can die.:eek::rolleyes: I've seen it all! :rolleyes: Martin

Martin, of course it had to be red. It's a German biplane now, so it has to be red or have some red in it :Q. Locally, we call it the Camel Fokker Morph ;). Now my tri-plane is black and white, because I'm getting tired of red too. But it's been a real PITA to try to get everything to hook up correctly. That's what I get for taking on an old Comet SuperStars model. They just were not designed for radio control. I think I'm spoiled by the ARF's.:red:

It will have to be my Camel that chases that red Camel with the black crosses. My SE5A is being repaired. I ground looped it on take off(hand launch take off). I don't think I launched it with enough speed.

steve's RED DR1 is ready and willing.

BTW, if it doiesn't get rained out, I am supposed to get to fly the new GP Spad this weekend at the Hoosier Dawn Patrol.

steve