I give up scalercflyer.....who?????
Mike

Thanks ron,
I knew the reason for the scalloping, but like I said most models exaggerate it. I was browsing a site whic is trying t identify all 320 Dr.1s built and it has a lot of original photos. In most of them the scalloping is very hard to detect.
thanks for the hint on underwing color.
Walt

Probably in most scale sizes, the scalloping might not even be visible if not exagerated.

The light blue color on the underside of the Fokker triplane is correct. However, according to some of my reference material it depends on who's tripe you model as to the tail stripes going all the way around. Steve.

for those of you who wanted to see my Direct Connections Sea Fury finished as the Reno racer "Furias," it's in the November Ampeer.
Walt

Hey guys, go to www.lxmodel.com and check out these little birds sold by giantscaleplanes.com on their website. These are some pretty cool, fairly scale appearing planes. I just hate the crazy see-through covering they use!! Steve

What's your favorite?
 

What is your favorite covering and how do you install it? Any problems putting it on or finishing it? :confused: Also I'd like to hear from has anyone who has used the Pull/Pull control system. :) I haven't done one yet, but I'm planning on using it on my next WWI plane (Fokker DVIII). I'd like to have a little help. Martin

I finished my Camel in polyester dress lining from Walmart. Went on easily. Seal with nitrate dope and regular dope. Paint with latex.

Two tricks on pull/pull systems. First and most critical is to have the distance between the attach points on both ends exactly equal. You can save some wear and tear on your servos by going thru a belcrank/ idler. The second big trick is not to over tighten the cables. Put just enough tension on them so they don't sag at extreme travel.
Walt

Dress Lining
 

Walt, tell me some more about the dress lining (name). Is it the same stuff Aerodrome RC sells? How much was it and what do I have to ask for? I think it is the same material that I have a roll of. Aerodrome sell it in 25 foot rolls for about 20 + dollars. Maybe it's cheaper at Wal-mart. Do you use an adhesive with it? Martin

Hey Martin!!! I'm working on the DVIII!!! I have all the patterns cut out and most glued to wood. Forgot a couple sizes of wood though so I will spend the rest of the afternoon going to my LHS, ( that is 65 miles away) to get the rest of the wood. Hopefully break out the scroll saw this evening and start cutting. Just wanted to let you know that I'm on it. Did you reieve your "package" from me yet? Should be there Monday for sure if you haven't seen it yet. Steve.

Hey Walt!!! Hurry up and finish that triplane!!! You're killing me not letting me know who's tripe your going to do!!!! Steve

Nothing yet
 

Good Show WWI Ace! Keep on building. I trust you will post pics for the rest of us to enjoy. No, haven't seen the package yet. Probably by Monday for sure :D . The tracking number you gave me is missing a number or letter. I'm not able to track it. BTW, you should look to your mailbox next week. I'm thinking by Friday your package should land at your door. You realize I am at a terrible dilemma don't you :eek: ? I need to decide which plane to build first.... Oh the Heck with it! I'll do a simultaneous build :D !!!! Martin

Build "em all!!! That's what they're for!!! Steve

Hey Martin. Waiting for the wife to get home from work to make the journey to hobby shop. I saved the email from UPS, and your probably right that I might have left out a number or something. Anyway, I looked it up and it was scanned today at 12:45am in Lawnside, NJ if you know where that is. I don't have a clue!!! Anyway, it must be close. Steve.

Martin,
all I can tell yo is that it is standard polyester dress/coat lining material. I think it was about .50/yd. I used Balsarite as the adhesive (fabric formula). One coat of nitrate dope and two of aerogloss. No other primer. Takes about a week for all the solvents to evaporate from the dope befoe you can apply the finish. Has to be reshrucnk after every coat of dope. Then it is very stable. It is also easy to repair (don't ask me how I know). Very light.
Walt

WWI Ace, I was going to start covering today, then some nut case posted the two hor History channel dogfight special. maybe during the World series tonight.
WT

Found it!
 

Aerodrome RC calls it POLYSPAN. I think it's the same stuff.;) I'm going to purchase some at the local WAL-MART. I'm told this is great covering to use on those fragile structures without adding weight or crushing the structure. :) You can spray just enough paint on it to color it. Aerodrome RC gets big bucks for it. Thanks to Walt I think we hit the jackpot Gents. :D Search E-zone for the polyspan threads for more info. Martin

The package
 

WWI ACE the package is closeby!!! Lawnside is the local depot near me. Should be here Monday! YEAH BABY!!!! :D Also see my response to Walt's covering suggestion. Martin

Martin's already covering!!! Boy do I feel lazy!!! Steve.

Not yet!
 

Not yet Buddy! I'm still in the parts cutting out stage. Soon though. Check out Walt's covering discussion. I think you'll like it. Saves you $. :D How about your covering technique? Martin

I covered a Lazy bee with polyspan. It's similar, but not the same. actually the dress lining was easier to work with.
Walt

Does anyone have plans for a taub?

I wonder it that polyester dress liner is the same as Koverall which a nice polyester heat shrink material that Sig sells?

Stan

Koverall is a woven cloth material, Heavy! Polyspan or Samspan is a random fiber material like dress lining. Dress lining apparently comes in various weights but the actual Polyspan is quite light. After about five or six coats of very thin dope it is almost exactly the same weight as Litespan. Don't try to dope it on like tissue. Use Balsarite or Sig Stix-it and iron it on. Then dope it to seal it. I think it is the easiest covering material of all to use. Just be careful sanding it. If you raise a "fuzz" it will take a lot more dope to smooth it out. That's my experience with it.

Interesting site for weathering
 

Found this while I was poking around. Check it out Guys. Martin
http://www.rc-airplane-advisor.com/s...ne-finish.html

Fokker DRI site
 

I think this is the site Walt was talking about in an earlier response. Martin

http://www.fokkerdr1.com/

Camo scheme
 

This is going on my tripe! Martinhttp://www.wwimodeler.com/esc/fok/stripes/udet-1.jpg

Yup, that's the site.
Cool color scheme Martin. Hope to get back to work on mine in a day or so.

I check my e-mail while eating breakfast, but I haven't figuredout how to get coffee staind out of balso, so I don't build during meals --- I know, I know, it's a weakness. sorry )-:
Walt

That will be too cool Martin!!!!Steve

The right darkness of coffee can make balsa look like some kinds of varnished hardwood. Have to expirement a bit with the grade of balsa and the strength of the coffee. Tea might also work.

Regualr or decaf?
Walt

dark roast works well for dying tissue if sprayed on with an atomizer when shrinking it. Makes 'em smell good, too!

Great infomational site.

Okay guys, the guessing game starts (-: Here are photos of the rudder and stab for my Dr.1. Please remember this is a sport scale model and I ran into some dimensional problems trying to fit the full scale scheme to this version
Walt

Walt. Is it Fokker DrI 403/17 flown by Ltn Johann Janzen of Jasta 6, March 1918? Steve

Package
 

Steve, did you get your package yet? Martin

No Martin, haven't seen anything yet!!! Anxiously anticipating it though. You didn't really have to you know!!! Steve

WWI Ace Really, really close, but no cigar (-:
Walt

Hmmmmmmmmmmm!!!!

w

lt. The only other one I can think of that is close is Ltn