rowdy b64, Was it tail heavy?

Paul

Looks a bit underpowered. Hate when things like that happen. At least it survived to try again another time.

I think it had a Camel on its tail. Martin do you like that RED?

What motor do you have in it?

I was scanning in old slides and found this from my college days. I still have the plans maybe I need to make another one and paint it red too.

Neat looking little tripe Degreen!! I like it red too!!! Steve

You're right Boys! I'm seeing RED! Martin

Hi Guys,
A few problems I think ...
First .. most certainly underpowered and trimmed badly .. bad combination into a headwind :blah:
Pretty sure it was good COG wise .. although not certain .. no details on COG from LX model (nice of them ....:mad: )
It has an RC SMART 1480 outrunner with a 3S lipo. That should have powered it OK ...IF i had put a prop of a reasonable size of it that wasn't vibrating to the hilt !!! Had a 9 x 4.5 on it ..have upped that to a 10x7 (that got rid of that horrible vibration.)
Also ordered a watt meter to check out the draw before I try again.

I've had this model for over a year now ... have never had it set up well enough to fly .. and always a bit scared to dive in at it without being sure. Am glad it was unbroken and am confident I will have it right the next time. :D:D I am very used to have this hanging in my office as a static model ... in it's pristine state!

BTW this bird weighs in at 1 KG .. so I am thinking the motor in it will not be enough ..
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/RC-Hobby-1480...QQcmdZViewItem

Thoughts ???

Cheers
Rowdy

Hello Rowdy, with the motor you've chosen, try to put a watt meter on it and see what you're drawing. I believe you could get away with an 11x4.7 and be under 30amp draw, and have considerable more thrust on 3 cells, although I run a smaller prop on a glider of the same weight that pulls vertical on a 9x7, 3 cells very nicely. Basically you need to use a watt meter to select your prop so you don't over draw your motor or esc or batteries.Also chec your motor and batteries for heat if your running full throttle forn long periods of time, this can also tell you that your set up isn't 100% and needs to be ajusted
Don

Maybe it is just me but I have not had any success using a low pitch prop outdoors. My Sopwith Tripe(right at 1lb) has a 9X7 prop and my Sopwith Camel(just over 1lb) has an 11X8. Both climb out nice. I use heavy Nimh 6 cells in both planes so I do not have to add dead weight for balance. Both planes draw less than 10amps. Neither plane will loop from horzonal flight but both loop after just a slight dive. They both have a 2410-09Y brushless.

Lower pitch is for thrust. Higher pitch is for speed. You really don't want your WWI plane to go fast. But when you decrease pitch you can add diameter. A 9x7 is usually going to have the same AMP draw as a 10x4.7 but the 10 inch prop will give more thrust and less top speed. Steve

Bipes and tripes also have a lot of drag, so a slower turning larger diameter prop may even be able to pull the plane at a better speed. Had a BUSA Phaeton that came with a .40, barely get off the ground and needed to dive before doing loops and rolls (like many man-carrying planes). Changing from a 10-6 which is normal for that size engine to an 11-4 cut the take-off run by almost 60%, and let me start doing consecutive loops from level flight. Just flew all-around better. Even though the RPM went from 14500 to around 12000. The smaller prop just couldn't pull against the overall drag.

Thanks for the help explaining this 50+!!! It might make more sense to him because of your example. Isn't it great how we all help each other? I know that I enjoy it!! Thanks for being here guys!! Steve

And Rowdy, as a rule a lower KV motor spinning a large diameter-low pitch prop works more efficiently on the WWI birds. Usually an outrunner with a Kv of between 700-1000 works best. Hope we're helping!! If you need a cheap outrunner for it look on www.hobbycity.com because theirs are cheap and their descriptions usually tell you all the information you need. I have never been disappointed with any of their products. Steve

I should've put my DR1 build thread in here! But it is made from FFF!


http://www.wattflyer.com/forums/show...65&postcount=1


Hillbille

That's a great link Steve, I've ordered from there too. I've also ordered from www.rchotdeals.com ,which delivers right to my country mailbox at the end of my driveway. I've had great luck with their TP combo's at a really great price.

We don't care what the planes are made of Hillbilly. We all fly planes built from a wide variety of building materials. Do you have a video of your tripe flying? Steve

Just more Camel food. I think this thread has more Dr1s than Fokker ever made. Fokker only built about 320.

I just have a VERY short one that is of poor quality (far away) - I'll try and see if I can find the link to post. These are very lightly loaded and fly absolutely great. They are designed for 4 channels - but the ones I have built so far only use three - no rudder. It is an easily modded desigh to yeild a biplane (D VII) and I have built that also in the hangar now is a SE5a of sorts but I haven't put the servos or controls on yet.

This was originally a semi 3D design but I don't think anyone but an expert 3D flyer coud do it with a triplane.


Hillbille

Steve,

As I am pretty auful at the video venue here it is such that it is.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LmneG8aS2iE


PS - I grew up and graduated HS in Amarillo.

Hillbille

How about a great flying FFF (Fun Flying Foamy) stand way back D VII? Made from the same basic plans with only slight mods?



Hillbille

Steve / Don / Hillbillie .. Thanks for your help/advice on this one. Weathers been aweful down here for the past few days .. No trials possible. I certainly will measure the draw when my Watt Meter arrives. I'll keep you posted!
Off to the Point Cook airshow to see some real birds in action!!
Cheers
Rowdy

Clamp on ammeter
 

Here's what I use to check amp draw. No need to disconnect anything, just use the clamp on ammeter. Available at your local auto parts store under the DORMAN brand name. Martin

http://www.dormanproducts.com/images...rap1/86274.jpg

I think I know a guy that works for Dorman!! Wink wink!! Steve

Hilbilly, cool video!! Steve

Good luck Rowdy!! Glad we could help a little. Stay in touch with us so we can see it flying!!! Steve