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-   -   WWI planes (https://www.wattflyer.com/forums/showthread.php?t=259)

Ron 03-24-2006 05:55 PM

Martin ..I forgot...re the DR1...I think it would probably look better in RED:D Likely a tough one to do as far as the forward part of the fuselage goes, but other than that probably no too hard....If I didn't already have a red one,:p
It should look awesome on a model...definitely do this one !

WWI Ace 03-25-2006 12:37 AM

Hey Ron. Martin has a medical condition called "Red Triplane Phobia" that keeps him from doing them in red. I think the actual medical name for this disease is, " No Redius Triplaneius" but I'm not sure!!! Your DVIII looks great!!! Just don't get so crazy with it that it becomes a hangar queen and not a flier!!! It would be a shame for people to not see that kind of workmanship. Steve.

scalercflyer 03-25-2006 12:58 AM

One of these days
 
One of these days Steve, you are going to get it and get it good! I guarantee it's going to be a bad one! :mad: :mad: :eek: Martin

BradT 03-25-2006 06:06 AM

WWI Ace, don't worry about Ron building a "Hangar Queen", it ain't gonna happen! His planes are built to fly, and fly they do. If the detailing started to impact flight, he'd start peeling the offending objects off, till it did fly right. I'm really looking forward to seeing this one in person, as all his other Fokkers, and the D VII he inspired me to build, are wonderful flyers, and always get lots of attention, even at predominantly glow/gas Big Bird and scale events that we've attended. If you're ever in this corner of Canada, you must come out to one of Ron's legendary Chilliwack fly-ins. There are a lot of really talented e-fliers, and builders, in the US Pacific Northwest, and Western canada, that make the trek to these events, and they're a treat for the eyes and an inspiration to improve one's own building and flying skills.
Brad.

Ron 03-25-2006 07:56 PM

Steve....around my shop, a hangar queen has never been.If it don't fly I don't know why I'd even bother to build it. They're built for go, not just for show. If it won't fly right, I'll spend all night making adjustments to it.
When I'm done with it if it flies like s--t I'll take it apart, and then I'll start to build it up again. It makes no sense to spend my pence on a plane that will not fly. it is insane to build a plane that is a " hangar queen"
So ther you go, and now you know what makes me do the stuff I do to make my models work. Most are say'n I'm plane insane, but it's just a silly quirk. Brad watch what you say, I might start to believe it :eek:
I don't want to get a swelled head, This will mean I'll have to buy a bigger hat, which won't do...you know I'm a cheap SOB :p

WWI Ace 03-26-2006 04:06 AM

Alright guysI just finished building all 3 wings for my Aerodrome 23 3/8" ws Fokker tripe. The way I look at it the hardest part of framing up a tripe is over. Will try to post some pics tomorrow. Right now I think I'll just relax and enjoy my handywork!!! Steve.

BradT 03-26-2006 08:20 AM

That's the idea, Steve, sit back and admire what you've accomplished so far, it gives one some encouragement to get on with the rest of it.:)
Brad.

scalercflyer 03-26-2006 09:35 AM

Good Show!
 
Good Show Steve! :D I'm happy to hear about the progress. :) I am waiting anxiously for the pics as well. How do you like the kit so far? Kurt's stuff is always top shelf. Should be a pleasurable and rewarding build. Martin

Ron 03-26-2006 05:42 PM

Steve...building the wings first seems the sensible thing to do..after all that's what the plane flies on :-) Time for a Bud and admire your handiwork for a while. when we don't set a " time line" for ourselves, that's when building is more enjoyable....equally as much as the flying.
oh I forgot to ask...what colour of red is it going to be ?

WWI Ace 03-26-2006 09:23 PM

I'm going to have to consult with Martin on the appropriate color of red. I have changed my choice of glue from CA to yellow carpenters glue because I had a hard time controlling the CA on the small structures. The yellow glue also gives me more time. This is a prototype kit so there are no instuctions. Now if I can just get the Polyspan figured out all will be well!!! Steve.

Ron 03-26-2006 11:26 PM

I like the weathertite carpenter's glue which is approximately the same as you are using....CA makes my eyes water, and I sneeze a lot when I have to use it. the carpenter's glue isn't really much slower to use, and it's actually lighter than CA. so you are also saving weight :-)

WWI Ace 03-27-2006 01:45 AM

Yeah Ron I really think that I don't lose that much time building with yellow glue. It's alot more "family friendly" too!!!! Steve.

Ron 03-29-2006 04:58 PM

Martin....what ever happened with the little model that you were going to put the hacker into this last winter??? .......I love mine, Brad has one, everybody needs one....:-)

Ron 03-30-2006 04:35 AM

Martin...Steve.....anybody....
I started to build a rotary motor for the front of the D V111, and I have the crank case and cylinders done,almost ready to assemble, but am looking for suggestions on how to do the cooling fins on the cylinders before I glue them on. anybody have any ideas??
I think it's going to be powered by an eflite 60 outrunner in a gearbox
(2 to 1 reduction) At 25 volts it should turn the prop shaft at 3700 rpm
with a 24X10 prop. Stall speed looks to be about 20 mph that gives me just about 2 times stall speed for max speed, but the thrust is about 1.5 to 1, so it should work ok.

dicknadine 03-30-2006 05:54 AM

cooling fins
 
assume that the cyl wall is balsa, why not make the fins 1/32 balsa, etc? rings are easy to cut out and glue on. dick

kensp 03-30-2006 06:42 AM


Originally Posted by Ron (Post 57227)
Martin...Steve.....anybody....
I started to build a rotary motor for the front of the D V111, and I have the crank case and cylinders done,almost ready to assemble, but am looking for suggestions on how to do the cooling fins on the cylinders before I glue them on. anybody have any ideas??

Use a circle cutter to cut alternate large and small circles from Depron. Cut the large circles from 3mm Depron and the small circles from 6 mm Depron. Drill a 3mm hole in the center of the circles and feed them onto a 3mm dowel. Start with a small circle, then a large circle and then another small circle. Continue untill you have enough length for one cylinder. A little glue to hold them together and you will have a cheap lightweight cylinder. For large models you may have to use thicker Depron.

Ken

scalercflyer 03-30-2006 09:21 AM

Hacker
 
Ron, the Formosa has been pushed back to second place behind the foamie tripe. :( A brutal work schedule and little building time has forced me to do so. HOWEVER, I am making good progress and should be done with the tripe before too long. :) I decided to do a pull-pull system on the tripe (my first), and this slowed me down a bit. I recently snagged some good deals (HS 55s @ $12,00 each, I bought 8! :eek: ) with a HITEC flight pack (has newest RX) so I can put some very light equipment into the tripe and free up the other servos, etc, for the Formosa build. :D Never fear! The Formosa will join it's Brothers in the sky by early summer!! :D I will be posting pics on my tripe build sometime this weekend. Martin

Walt Thyng 03-30-2006 02:27 PM

I've made cylinders by running a pipe coupling over a balsa rod. Not scale, but with the prop turning, mobody's going to get close enough to notice (-:
Walt
PS getting back to work on the Tripehound. Been overloaded at work.

Ron 03-30-2006 04:56 PM

Walt...that might work for me in a pinch...the crank case and 5 cylinders weigh in at 14 grams ( 1/2 oz not too bad for 1/4 scale I think) so one pipe coupler will weigh more than the whole motor so far, and I don't want to go there if I don't have to.
I have the pushrod and springs all figured out...I'm trying to keep it light as possible because it's a proto type for the one I want to build for my big model. Ken....The idea of the depron might be feasible, The cylinders are 2 3/8" high each, so that's a real stack of pancakes eh? I would have to start the cylinders from scratch again which isn't really a problem..I have been known to build parts four or five times in order to get them down to the weight I targeted, so that my model comes out at the estimated finished weight or less.I'll just have to get a circle cutter. ( or spend lotsa time with a razor blade ) :eek:
I thought to make depron donuts to glue onto the cylinder tubes.
Guess I'll have to make a cutter for them. I tried bending balsa strips around the tubes, and thought I had it...it worked well for the strips close to the center, but when I get out as far as 5 strips and have to change to thicker ones for the larger fins, it won't work as I can't seem to get the thicker wood to bend around the cylinder....even cross grain.
Dick..I thought to try the 1/16 balsa rings, but they are not quite as easy to cut as I at first thought and the idea of cutting 80 of them didn't really appeal to me all that much. I was going to use poster board, but it's really heavy .
Martin...when you do the pull pulls for your model, make sure that the distance between the holes on the control horn and the holes in the servo arm are exactly the same. otherwise you will have some
tensioning issues with your control cables.
You're going to love the formosa. Mine flies just like my big pattern model. It must have a couple hundred flights on it now, and I noticed yesterday that either the motor or the lithiums seem to be getting a little saggy. mind you it was a pretty bumpy morning , so it may have been just conditions. I'll do another three practise flights this afternoon. I try for three a day every day, some times 3 in AM and 3 in PM. been doing that for about a dozen years,.
back to the D V111....just got a flash of an idea gotta check it out before I go to work.

50+AirYears 03-30-2006 05:04 PM

Built a dummy radial for a rubber powered FF P-47. Just wound thread around solid balsa dummy cylinders.

Ron 03-30-2006 07:56 PM

For a small motor, the thread works fine, and looks good too....but we're dealing with a motor that's ten inches in dia, so it would have to be more like small rope :-) I think the idea of depron donuts may work, so I'm going to have a go at it either this evening or tomorrow evening....
couple hours with a razor blade and some foam safe CA should pretty much do the trick ( I hope )

kensp 03-30-2006 10:40 PM

Ron

I use this Hobbyco Circle cutter that is available from Tower Hobbies. If you already have the cylinders then this cutter will cut depron donuts very quickly and easily. It cuts depron very cleanly.

Ken

Kapn Kaos 03-31-2006 12:51 AM

How about getting some inexpensive, sharpened metal tubing from the hardware store and punching out the cooling fins from whatever material available. You could try foam egg cartons or produce trays from the grocery store. You also might want to leave out the spacer rings and just rely on a keen eye and glue to hold the parts together. It all looks good on paper.

Walt Thyng 03-31-2006 02:19 AM

You misunderstood me or else I was not clear. The pipe coupling is used as a die to cut threads in the wood. A coupler is not a nipple!
Walt

Walt Thyng 03-31-2006 02:20 AM

help, I accidentlaly unsubscribed from this thread and now I can't figure out how ot get back on.
Walt


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