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-   WWI Era (https://www.wattflyer.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=70)
-   -   WWI planes (https://www.wattflyer.com/forums/showthread.php?t=259)

Ron 12-19-2009 08:58 AM

Not unless it goes by way of Marty :-) Guns are done..started on the motor this evening... made the templates to make sure all the measurements are OK and it will actually fit in the hole.....it's embarrassing when you spend hours on something and it doesn't fit....

floss 12-19-2009 08:31 PM

Hi Guys

Thought I would post this link here for you in case you haven't stumbled on this company.
http://thevintageaviator.co.nz/node/3794

This is a local company that is making a name building exact reproductions of WW1 aircraft down to the last nut and bolt. They have just finished and flown an Albatros DVa after spending some time gathering plans and info on the subject. In the end to get it exact a laser scanning machine was set up in the Canberra War Museum to totally scan their original DVa (one of two in existance) and what you see here is the result.
The originality is stunning, these guys even made the ply when it was realised that there was not a plywood close enough that was readily available. There is nothing that detracts from the original with an original engine etc powering the plane. I have just finished reading a 4 page article in a local magazine on this aircraft and what is amazing is the maintenance and start-up procedures that these planes required. The 27 litres of water that cooled the engine had to be drained at the end of every day and refilled before the following days flight due to a lack of a true seal between the engines cooling and oil system. The only seal that existed between the two galleries was a grease pressure seal that relied on the pilot cranking a handle in the cockpit every once and a while to pack the gland with more grease. Hence the draining, if the water was left in the system overnight it broke down the grease seal and ended up in the sump with the oil. The flying reproductions are so exact what is interesting is they have all the quirks of the original aircraft, these guys will build a full sized rotary engine from scratch in their machine shop to ensure that the aircraft is original if needbe!
They have also built other reproductions including a flying FE2B, SE5a etc and are currently building a BE2. They also build static display aircraft for museums.

After looking at the Albe go to the homepage and check out their work, real mouthwatering stuff.

Steve

scalercflyer 12-19-2009 09:18 PM

WWI info
 
Very nice stuff! It's already book marked. Thanks, Steve

Biplane Murphy 12-19-2009 09:57 PM


Originally Posted by scalercflyer (Post 673137)
All of these negative comments are making me see RED! :eek::D:cool:;) Marty

I bet Marty has a special Red Santa Suit and Hat for when he goes flying at Christmas time!!!

:D:D:D:D:D

Dirky 12-19-2009 09:59 PM

there's something similar in Germany too!

http://www.fokker-team.de/

All done using nothing but old style tooling too!

Dirky

degreen60 12-20-2009 12:08 AM


Originally Posted by Biplane Murphy (Post 673433)
I bet Marty has a special Red Santa Suit and Hat for when he goes flying at Christmas time!!!

:D:D:D:D:D

And flys a red RC sliegh.

scalercflyer 12-20-2009 03:08 AM

All of you knuckleheads are going down in flames! :eek::D:rolleyes: Marty

dbcisco 12-20-2009 03:14 AM

Not my red Albatros. It is staying on the shelf, safe from Marty.:D

Ron 12-20-2009 07:21 AM

wonder if Santa's gonna bring Marty a red model plane this Christmas??

Oh right I forgot...there ain't no sanity clause

Biplane Murphy 12-20-2009 09:07 PM


Originally Posted by Ron (Post 673660)
wonder if Santa's gonna bring Marty a red model plane this Christmas??

I sure hope so!!!!!

HAHAHHAHHAHAHAhahahhahahahahahha

HOHOHOHOHOHOHOHOHOHOHOHOHOHOHOHO

Merry Red Dr1'smas

:):D:Q:D:)

50+AirYears 12-20-2009 09:25 PM

It seems fascinating to go through reference books on WWI German planes, and even try to find more than a handfull that were painted red. Seems more like even later Fokkers, while more or less retaining the standard lozenge patterns showed far more individualistic color choices. Even in a picture of Eindiekers p\on the Fokker factory in black and white indicate a color variation, including in a picture in one source and E-III covered in a transparent covering, as an early stealth expirement.

dbcisco 12-20-2009 10:23 PM

What other colors don't you like Marty? :D

Happy Holidays to all!

degreen60 12-21-2009 01:09 AM

I bet Marty don't have a single allied plane cause the roundles have red in them.

Biplane Murphy 12-21-2009 05:29 AM


Originally Posted by degreen60 (Post 673887)
I bet Marty don't have a single allied plane cause the roundles have red in them.

Biplane Murphy now proceeds to die of laughter!!!!!!!!!

Slottateemn 12-21-2009 06:51 AM

Last Page
 
I like this idea, I completely with you agree.

dmanvell 12-21-2009 02:06 PM

WW1
 
I have always loved WW1 Planes and have many Giant Scale versions. After reading these posts I am now thinking I will build an electric version. I have been flying a 1/4 scale Nick Ziroli Taube that only weighs 11 lbs with 84" wing span for over 20 years. I think I have plans somewhere for a .19 gas version. That would make a great electric.

dbcisco 12-21-2009 02:48 PM


Originally Posted by dmanvell (Post 674011)
I have always loved WW1 Planes and have many Giant Scale versions. After reading these posts I am now thinking I will build an electric version. I have been flying a 1/4 scale Nick Ziroli Taube that only weighs 11 lbs with 84" wing span for over 20 years. I think I have plans somewhere for a .19 gas version. That would make a great electric.

Welcome to the dark side. :D

degreen60 12-21-2009 09:44 PM


Originally Posted by dmanvell (Post 674011)
I have always loved WW1 Planes and have many Giant Scale versions. After reading these posts I am now thinking I will build an electric version. I have been flying a 1/4 scale Nick Ziroli Taube that only weighs 11 lbs with 84" wing span for over 20 years. I think I have plans somewhere for a .19 gas version. That would make a great electric.



You can make the plane a lot lighter than the plans call for. You don't have that vibator in the nose trying to tear the plane apart. Also you can use cheaper paints, don't have that slime getting on the plane trying to take the paint off. I like electric so much I sold all my nitro engines and fuel tanks.

dmanvell 12-21-2009 11:15 PM

I agree with you. This design was not big on heavy pieces but used very light construction methods. The result has been a Super Flying light weight plane. Add strength where it necessary and no where else. This also used pull/pull cables and works great.
PS: I have a Tiger Moth 400 (old one) and the ESC is a Dymond D20. Anyone know if I could use LiPo's instead of the NiMH's? What about the voltage cut off. I am not familiar with LiPo's and how they work.
Don

Ron 12-22-2009 03:46 AM

dmanvell
Don't let size fool you...you can do anything, and I mean anything with electric that you can with fuel....and it doesn't have to be expensive... a motor to swing a 28" prop only costs about 70 dollars.....you just have to occasionally put your thinking cap on ..and there's lots of help available on this forum that's for sure.
welcome to the "dark side" wooo haaa haaa haa.

degreen60 12-22-2009 05:58 AM


Originally Posted by dmanvell (Post 674178)
PS: I have a Tiger Moth 400 (old one) and the ESC is a Dymond D20. Anyone know if I could use LiPo's instead of the NiMH's? What about the voltage cut off. I am not familiar with LiPo's and how they work.
Don

The Moth will probably fly better with Lipos, they are lighter for the same power. Just make sure you don't go below 3 volts per cell. You can buy ESC that cut power when battery get to 3 volts or you can time how long you fly and land before the battery get to 3 volts. If you know enough about electronics you can do as I did and make a voltage detector that will kill the signal to the ESC at 3 volts per cell which will stop the motor but still let the receiver work. What I would do is get a brushless motor to replace the 400 brush motor with. If the 400 has a gear box, get a brushless that will swing the same prop without a gearbox. You maybe able to find a brushless motor for under $10. I use 30amp ESC I buy for under $12 shipped. My 2 cell 900ma Lipo cost me $8 and 3 cells 1500ma are $15 including shipping.

Ron 12-22-2009 06:52 AM

5 Attachment(s)
couple pictures of the last couple evenings with a razor blade and some sand paper.......getting dangerously close to being ready to cover ::o

dmanvell 12-22-2009 01:32 PM


Originally Posted by degreen60 (Post 674312)
The Moth will probably fly better with Lipos, they are lighter for the same power. Just make sure you don't go below 3 volts per cell. You can buy ESC that cut power when battery get to 3 volts or you can time how long you fly and land before the battery get to 3 volts. If you know enough about electronics you can do as I did and make a voltage detector that will kill the signal to the ESC at 3 volts per cell which will stop the motor but still let the receiver work. What I would do is get a brushless motor to replace the 400 brush motor with. If the 400 has a gear box, get a brushless that will swing the same prop without a gearbox. You maybe able to find a brushless motor for under $10. I use 30amp ESC I buy for under $12 shipped. My 2 cell 900ma Lipo cost me $8 and 3 cells 1500ma are $15 including shipping.

Degreen60

It would really help me if you let me know where you bought these items as I am not that familar with electric suppliers. Also a charger for LiPo. the places I have looked at has mucher higher prices or "out of stock" on everything. Also if you know what motor that would help.
Thanks, Don

7car7 12-22-2009 03:30 PM

Enjoy
 

degreen60 12-22-2009 04:01 PM

2 Attachment(s)

Originally Posted by dmanvell (Post 674373)
Degreen60

It would really help me if you let me know where you bought these items as I am not that familar with electric suppliers. Also a charger for LiPo. the places I have looked at has mucher higher prices or "out of stock" on everything. Also if you know what motor that would help.
Thanks, Don

Here is a 2s battery.
http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.7621
Another 2s battery, cost more but a little smaller.
http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.10783
3s battery
http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.12822
30amp ESC
http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.11981
20amp ESC(I have not use this ESC)
http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.11980
Here is the charger I use but they are temp sold out.
http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.8798

I donít know how long it takes them to restock cause they have always had what I want in stock. Unless you order more than one of a single item every item you order is a single order cause they have free shipping on everything. I did get a bad ESC from them. I filled out the form for receiving a bad item and the next day had an email telling me to keep the bad one and a replacement was on the way.

I get my motors here. Do not place order if they are out of stock, they will hold the whole order for one item on back order. I finally had to cancle the one item to get the order shipped.
http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbycity/store/uh_index.asp

I have posted the charts I use to pick a motor.

I have 4 motors I like and I just try one till I get the motor prop I like for the plane. If the plane is a floater, uses a 12 inch prop, it can probably fly with a 2410-12 which has 19 ounces of thrust. I use this motor on my GWS SS-F trainer with 2s battery.

A 2410-09 will give 24 ounces of thrust with an 11 inch prop. I fly a Wattage Camel with 11 inch prop and a JR MS-N with 10 inch prop both use a 2s battery, both planes are nice floaters.

A 2410-08 will give 23 ounces of thrust with a 10inch prop. I fly a scratch built Sopwith Tri plane that is a nice floater, 9 inch prop and 2s with this motor. I also fly an GP Eflight SE5A with a 9 inch prop and 3s with this motor, it is a faster flyer and not a floater.

I have an Etude 1200 electric plane from the 80s, it has a 48 inch wing and came with a large brush motor and gearbox. I put a 2408-21 on it with a 8 inch prop and 3s battery. I had to add about 3 ounces of weight to the nose. It would fly on slower turning motor with larger prop but I wanted it to fly faster if needed.
The 2408-21 has 22 ounces of thrust.

All of these planes will fly about half throtle.

I use other motors too. I just look at what the plane was built to use then look for a cheaper motor that turns about the same speed with the same prop. Course then I have to make new motor mountings but when I started in this hobby I had to make every motor mount.





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