You're done!
 

Yeah Chris, stick you with a fork, you're done. :eek: There goes another good pilot Steve! :eek::D I can just hear it now.... yes Dear,.... oh no, I really didn't want to go flying with my Buddies today :rolleyes: ... I'd rather be here with you :rolleyes:;):D.....HAHAHAHAHA! JUST KIDDING Chris...... LOL Martin

wind was 0-5 today thats all it took the plane is very light my fault should of had it held down.......

Don't gloat
 

Don't gloat yet degreen. :D You better check your six! You never know who's there. :eek: Could be the Hun in the Sun! :D Martin

HAHAHHA

She told me she would be willing to learn to fly.;-)
And said that someday If or when we live together, I get the whole garage or a room inside the house for my planes.....

That's a gal who knows the way to an RC addict's heart.:)

Thanks Don,

Showing my inexperience with scale building there. Hadn't even thought of a Pull Pull system although I had seen it on models I had researched. Went to the LHS on Saturday and got a closed loop setup. Its going to look so cool.

One question, do you cross the cables within the fuselage I.E. Does the left cable on the rudder go to the right arm on the servo?

Thanks
Rob

I do not cross the cables. You can do it several ways. One way is to install seperate bellcranks in the fuselage that the lines hook to that hook to the servos with push rods. This keeps the tension of the lines off the servos. I do not use this cause my planes are only about 1/10 scale. I make a foam holder for my servos that mounts the servos on the center line of the fuselage with the forward servo mounter higher then the rear one. Then I just use upholstery thread(cause I have lots of it) for the lines. I tie the lines at the control horn and loop it through the sevro horn so it will slip. When I get the control surface adjusted to where I want it I wedge at the servo and glue it with white glue. If I need to readjust hotwater will remove the white glue. On the elevator I run 2 V lines that attaches to the elevator. The V line has a beads on it and a line tied to the bead that loops through the sevro are. The beads let the V line slip for adjustment, then I put a drop of white glue on it. You can find other threads on useing pull-pull.

http://www.cloud9rc.com/index.asp
try this link for some micro electric choices and some good info. Your Guillows kit sucess will depend on finished weight and you will need to make decisions based on what equipment your chosing to install in the SE5.Another question comes to mind, how many servo's did you chose to install. Did you use ailerons ?or just use elevator and rudder for control?The Guillows kit was originally designed for FreeFlight rubber or an 0.20 glow.You may not have enough experience to properly determine the CG so that your conversion will fly corretly. If your going brushless motor or geared can type.
I
i have a guillows JN4 curtis Jenny. This needs a 50 watt outrunner brushless,450mah 3cell lipo battery,10amp Novak esc,5x3.4in prop, 371 bluebird sub micro servo's.You will also need to add about 14 degrees of dehiedral to the wings to get the plane to rotate for 2 ch - rudder/elevator control.If you build with ailerons,much less and may get away with 1or2 degrees.The suggestion to try another kit for your first is probably your best bet for flying sucess,unfortunately.
If I may suggest something to greatly help you with your project, it would be a similar plane and you could use the harware from it once you've mastered flying it and understand the building design needs of small planes and micro equipment.Try a inexpensive GWS Tiger moth.Similar in weight(good gauge for how much wind you can fly in)similar motor requirements and fast easy build. I still fly mine at the indoors meets and early morning with "NO WIND).It's slow,easy to fly, easy to build correctly and will give you oodles of experience and understanding of small aircrafts requirements without breaking he bank. The kit is fairly complete, comes with most of the hardware needed. just add servo's,radio,battery and ESC.It flies very well and would make an excellent trainer as you could slow the plane down next to a crawl.With some flying experience it will fly with a little wind also.It's also quick and easy to repair if you crash it Then use what you learned with the tigermoth, and apply this to your SE5a build and conversion.
Please note this is a personal suggestion through my own experiences but I would like to see you have the best chance at completing and flying your project and staying with the hobby for many rewarding years to come. It's nice to see you have some of that spark that inspired all of us when we started in the hobby.
Don
The Old Spoonwasher

Hey degreen60,Don,I got your six...keep up the great work...LoL...we'll get them folkers anyway we can...LoL...Don
Sorry Martin, couldn't resist a little poke now and then.Just in fun though.

[quote=Spoonwasher;350038Try a inexpensive GWS Tiger moth.[/quote]

I agree this is a good way to start. If you crash the Tiger Moth it breaks into large foam pieces that are easy to glue back together instead of having a bag full of tooth picks to take home and spend a week putting back together. The Tiger was my second plane, well if you don't go all the way back to the 60s.

Watch out Murph!! Sometimes they change their minds after a while!! You guys are killing me!! Fly that Camel over Texas Degreen60 and I'll watch you sizzle all the way to the ground!! Haha!! Isn't it interesting that McCudden said upon the Red Barons death, "I hope he sizzled all the way to the ground!" McCudden ended up being shot down in flames himself. Steve

I though my Morane Saulnier L needed engine cylinders showing in the open bottom of the cowl. Using printed paper and foam pieces here is what I made. My tach shows no lose of RPM

degreen60,

What a great idea!!!:tc: I love it, and it looks great. Can you see it when it is flying, or is it spinning too fast?

Dave

I am waiting on the wind to stop blowing so I can maiden the plane. I suspect the engine can only be seen on low slow flybys and maybe on landing. Most of my landing I make straight at me(in my backyard) so I should be able to see the engine then. If this works good I may make some to hide the open front of the cowl on my other WW1 planes. If you look in the front of the cowl on my Sopwith tripe you see brushless motor, wires, and battery. I think this would improve the looks of all those Dr1s. They have the open bottom cowl.

Tell us!
 

You must tell us how you did it. :) What a wonderful addition to your MS "L"! :cool: You did us proud! :D Martin

I found some paper printed engine models for WW1 planes on the net. I just enlarged the LeRhone to the size that I needed. I did not build the crankcase but just glued the front of the crankcase onto the brushless motor bell. Then I made a foam rod(pushed brass tube through foam) the correct diameter for the printed cylinder to glue around and glued the end of the foam to the bell of the brushless motor. After I get the plane flying good I will add more of the printed paper pieces to the motor. Nice thing about it there is always replacement parts if you keep the files. When the motor is running I don't think you will be able to see it from the front when flying. I notice on my Sopwith Tripe that when flying at me I can not see open or brushless motor in the cowl. I think the prop hides it.

Here is the URL for the engines.

http://www.sero-papermodels.com/content.do?page=page.2_download2

That looks awesome!!!

degreen60,

Thanks for the url!!!:ws:

They look great.:tc:

Dave

Nice touch Don. I like to add some details like that to my planes to give them a little more scale like finishes. I'll have to try and remember this one for any future builds. Thanks
Don

How have you guys been? Did you miss me? My computer caught a cootie and we had to fix it. We're all better now!!! Went flying for about 3 hours yesterday. Made it back home with all my planes in one piece. One guy lost his 3D plane and another crashed his trainer and Edge 540. We don't get many good flying days this time of year so I took advantage of it!!! Steve

Avatar
 

Check out my new avatar Boys! :D If you like it, I'll tell you how I did it and where I got it (PLENTY more WWI pics where that came from). :):D Martin

It's cool but that plane is missing a wing!!! Steve

OK Martin,

I'll bite!:silly: I really would like to know how you did it and where it came from. When I try to make a photo with few enough pixels, it looks like very bad quality and soft.

Looking forward to learning from the master.;-):)

Dave

Wrong color too. HAHA

I'll opt for the info on the pics, too! Your problem is you have the wrong THREE wings; My Sopwith says so!!! Lee Robinson W. Palm Beach.

Here's how
 

OK everyone here's how I do it. First go to e-bay and look for WWI models
http://toys.search.ebay.com/WWI_Mode...Z1QQsacatZ1188
Scroll down and look at the box art for the kits. Pick the one you want and right click on it. Do a save as (whatever you choose) in your picture file (I use Kodakshare). Go to your Private messages, avatar, and then go to browse. Go to your save as file and double click to change your avatar. You will find the listings change often so you have plenty to choose from. BTW, you can check the properties of the picture by right clicking on the image and getting the size (pixels). Let me know if you have any questions. Martin

Are there planes with more wings? Ha ha!!! Steve

Just a quick Google on Quadraplanes turned up at least 7 quads, a couple 7s, the Caproni CA60 with 9 wings, and a number of Phillips designed Flying Venetion Blinds, one of which has a classic film strip often used in commercials as it collapses while taxiing. Oddly enough, Phillips, who designed a number of multiplanes, actually became moderately well known in aerodynamics. Even Alexander Graham Bell designed his AEA Cygnet with a complex multi wing concept, and a gentleman name of Hargreave had a couple steam powered designs as early as the 1890s.

Not all of them, if any, managed to fly.

I just watched a show on the Military channel about the 10 best fighter airplanes. The Camel was listed as number 7. The P51 was first.

Be Quiet!
 

You better be quiet you crazy Texican or you'll be wearing your own set of wings! :eek::D Martin

I like three wings!!! I still think it was a good concept. I wonder what a P-51 triplane would look like? Steve

It would look GRRRRRREAT!!!!!

Especially if painted bright Red.:D:D:D:D:D:D

You're probably right Murph!!! Steve

On second thought
 

On second thought, I think I'll give you both your own set of wings! :eek::eek::D:D Martin

at least it's not red...

http://static.rcgroups.com/forums/at...28Large%29.jpg

http://static.rcgroups.com/forums/at...28Large%29.jpg


blame this guy...

**neons**

Hello WWI Pilots,
Yes this is comical in pink. Actually I was just coming in here to make a post of my Pink Foam built Dr-1 Triplane and saw my pink foam on display. Actually it is painted now as Lt. August Rabens color scheme.(White Raven) more info, video, and free plans are in this thread near the begining pages by Steve Shumate.
More Pics and info on my semi scale plane is here.
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...38#post9139283
and here
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...44481&page=253 and #254
Yes there is a pink foam on this earth at Home Depot called Z-Fold. Not bad price.
Enjoy
**Neons** Bob

More Camel food.

Hi Bob....Welcome to the thread.

Hello Murph,
This is my secnd try at building a WWI classic. This is bearly a standoff scale. I am combining sport flying into it. Mine has some extra control in it for quicker rolls.
There is not a Camel made that can manuever as this one will.
I just thought it would be nice to fling that Camel dung back where it came from. Camel meat! Delicious, if hungry.
I am ready to build another some thing now just to keep busy. Maybe an Albatros with those nice colors.
Thanks for your invite to this interesting thread.
**Neons** Bob

You're welcome here anytime Neons!! We like all WWI nuts!!! Steve