I got that Fighting Triplanes book as a gift from Martin last year. It is probably my favorite book. It has some VERY interesting planes in it!!! Steve

I was always a "newer is better" kind of guy.

But I doubt I would be able to find a current book with half the pictures this one has.

bub steve::Micky Mouse got em!! he wasn't fooled by the pink plane with the "stack of pancakes" for wings!!bub,steve

Books
 

Flyingmonkey, I have both of these books (Fighter Aircraft of the 1914-1918 War by Aero Publishers in 1964 and The Fighting Triplanes published by The Macmillian Company in 1968) and they are excellent. I too have found through years of research that the closer to the actual time in history that the book was printed, the more accurate the material. Another excellent (and probably the best) source of information about WWI aviation history can be found in the journals of The League of WWI Aviation Historians. I have almost all of the journals. The website can be found here: http://www.overthefront.com/main/index.html Steve, I think you have a paperback copy of the Fighter Aircraft of the 1914-1918 War if I'm not mistaken. I wonder were you got it? :confused::D Martin

Sweet!

thanks martin.

I think the MS is ready to fly. Now have to wait on the wind to stop blowing.

now that is pretty cool looking

Nice Job!
 

Beautiful, beautiful job on the Morane my Friend. :) Just looking at the rigging gives me the chills! :rolleyes: It sure does add character! :D Martin

I love the rigging and what looks to be a pull pull system

degreen60: super job, bub, steve

I use pull pull on all my WW1 birds. Keeps the tail lighter than useing push rods. I made the rudder moveable but have it pined straight. I may have to wait until I get a 3 cell Lipo. I am using a brushless PC tape drive motor. They are low current high voltage motor. You can see the bell housing of the motor. If it flyes the plane ok I will try adding cylinders to it.

50+

Now that you mention it, I remember that article, also, and I did try it out, but it didn't work properly for me.
As for the other finishing you describe, I must confess you were far more meticulous than was I. Once I had the finish on and doped enough to be tight, I was ready to go flying.

Early 60s U/C, leadout guide broke at wing tip. It did fly again.

My R/C was single channel on 27mhz, was almost a free flight, only turned left or right. Just hoped it would always turn and come back like you wanted it too. Seemed like every other flight landed in a tree somewhere. I do remember chasing someone elses fly-a-way, all the way to an airport where it was setting without a scratch in the back of a pickup when we arrived. The airport workers said it was quite a thrill watching a plane go down in the grass not knowing it was a model.

And I bet those early single channel radios weren't cheap...

i just got my GP DR1 ready to test fly......weather has been to cold n windy.......need an calm day as i feel the plane will be senistive to control inputs.....hope it will fly as weel stated

Welcome to Wattflyer Shoes,

it needs to be balanced as well as you can get it too.

and yes, it is more sensitive than you'll expect.

tks for the info.....its balanced where it shows in the instruction booklet.......like to fly with ya bit iam in VA.......i also have the DR-VII which i have flown great flyer........

Sounds like a couple more for my Camel to hunt and shoot down.

Wecome shoes

Welcome
 

Welcome to the best thread on Wattflyer shoes! Feel free to shoot down any and all Camels you may encounter. After all, you can out turn them! Martin

I've Flown My Lanier Dvii A few Times Now....wow
After Flying The Low Wing War Bird'S It Was Kinda Strange
I Put A 3530 14 & "2" 3s 850mah 25/50 Lipo's In It
Had Not Landed A Plane That Slowly In A While

fyi i do have on the other end of the scale hobby lobbys su-27 twin elec ducted fans iam getting it dial in.......

Well boys my 18yo just signed up for 5yrs in the Navy. He's gonna be in submarines!! I think he got $50,000 bonus for his enlistment. The first of my boys to join the military like their dad!!! Too proud for words!!! Steve

Wow!!!...That's great Steve!!!!

cool steve i have an church member whos an retired submariner

Congratulations!

Boy, times have changed from when I thought it was great to get a whole $98.72 for my first pay. Of course, my "bonus" for my first enlistment was a free ride into the federal building on 9th street in Cleveland, a free train ride to Hopkins airport, three meal tickets, and a ride to Lackland AFB that had 4 plane changes, 3 of the planes DC-7Cs, one Lockheed turboprop job, and the final leg in a Boeing 720. Flight took over 12 hours.

You probably had something similar.

I spent 4 years in the Army as a combat engineer. Ft. Leonardwood, Mo. , S. Korea, Honduras

Excellent!
 

Congrats to the both of you! I'll bet you're one proud Pop! Needless to say I will pray for your son. tell him we need more MEN like him. May the LORD bless him, all of our vets, past and present, and may GOD BLESS AMERICA!! Martin

Steve,

congrats! You should be very proud! I have had many in my family to serve in the military, ARMY and USAF, none in the NAVY that I know of. I have 30 years as a civilian for the USAF, my son received his Commission in the OH ANG back in November, he finished in the top of his class at AMS, he's working on getting a UPT slot. I know that proud feeling.

AD

WWI German Aircraft armament
 

Check out this website Boys. Very interesting. Martin

http://www.brushfirewars.org/weapons...armament_1.htm

That's cool!! Steve

Help
 

I have a Guillows SE5A and want to convert it to elec flight with micro rc, it has a 24" wingspan and this is my first elec plane, can anyone help!!!!

A little bit of advice
 

Hi Guys,

Following your fantastic advice previously, thought I would ask again. As some of you may remember, I am building a 1/8 (40" Span) Sopwith Pup. The Fuselage is almost finished and I need to put in the linkages for the Elevator and Rudder. My question is what is the best thing to use, the flexible snake type linkage or a solid piano wire linkage? Sorry if this is a silly question but I am new to this.

The servos are mounted upside down just under where the pilot is. I have mounted them so they sit either side next to the fuselage with the arms inwards so the linkages go down the centre of the fuselage. Hope that makes sense.

Is it best to maybe move the servos slighty more inboard, flip the arms round (so they are pointing outwards) and run the flexible linkages down the side of the fuse?

Hope you can help.

Rob

I use pull-pull on all my WW1 birds. I don't think it weights as much as push rods which helps keep the tail lighter. It also is more scale.

Don

Hedlro, if you use the pushrod setup go with the music wire if you don't have guide tubes so it won't flex. You can mount your servos either way. I always cross my pushrods so they exit the fuselage opposite of their servo. Steve

Acky190 what I'm about to say is JUST my own opinion but it is usually Very difficult for someone new to electric to convert a free flight plane that small to RC. Tiny planes can also be a handful to fly. The picture on my avatar is a 23 inch wingspan Fokker triplane I built so I have a little experience. If you are really dead set on building such a small WWI RC plane may I reccommend a kit from either www.aerodromerc.com or www.manzanolaser.com because each of these places sell small laser cut kits. The great thing about their kits is that they are already RC so all the servo locations and stuff are laid out on the plans so there isn't as much guess work. The kits are about $30 each and they even list some possible radio and power system setups. They're also about the same wingspan as your SE5a kit!! I'm not trying to discourage you; just letting you know that from my experience the smaller the plane the tougher the build!! Someone else want to chime in on this one? Steve

Small planes
 

Acky190 I would advise against building something small unless you have an indoor place to fly it or fly it on a windless day. This does limit the planes use. :( Small planes such as the SE5a you are building require quite a bit of experience both in building and flying. :) I don't know how long you have been flying/building nor do I mean to throw a wet blanket on your project. I too have 2 COMET models(rubber power, an SE5a and an ALbatros DVa) that I will someday convert to RC. They are both about the same size as yours. :) They will require extensive modification and the use of small RC equipment which can be in itself, cost prohibitive. I do agree with Steve though. If you are sure you want to proceed, you might want to check those 2 sites Steve mentioned. :) Chris, where are you? Martin

Hi Marty.....I have been on the phone with that gal I told you about...:)

Ackky190....I would recommend building a small bipe in the 30-36" wingspan range.... small enough to transport easily, but big enough to handle a variety of weather conditions.:)
Also the electronics can be had for a reasonable amount of $$

well tried to test fly dr1 today, had it on picinic table at the flying field. gust of wind came up blew it off the table first crash with out running the motor......minor damage to wing structs and structs hold downs......must of been an omen lol

Calm day
 

Shoes I recommend flying that tripe on a calm day or indoors first. They can be a handful. Martin

DR1 down and my Camel did not even have to fire a shot.