Actually, I've found they cover not too bad if you take a strip of covering about 3/4 of an inch wide and do the edges first....then you don't seem to have as much problem with them....at least I don't...or maybe I'm just not really that fussy :-)

Thanks Ron!! I'll try to remember that the next time I cover a scalloped wing. Steve

Just now making a male plug/mold for the cowling...it seems that none of the models I have seen have a really"scale" cowling shape...they have a sort of interpretation of what it might have looked like.... so I have been searching all over for a decent view of the cowl...seems that wasn't exactly the part everyone wanted to photograph :-)

Try a search for photos of Werner Voss' tripe. They like to show his cowl alot!! Steve

Thanks for that Steve.I had a peek at it ...have the cowl mold mostly done up...but haven't finished polishing it yet... the problem seems that there's an optical illusion ( delusion ) when you look at pictures...and these pics show the cowl better...now I think I got it. (hopefully)......... next onto the wheels and guns...decided that since I'm basically 6 months ahead of schedule, I could take the time to make my own pieces...not to save money, but just so I could have the experience of doing it.
what a great hobby we're into here.....get to chat with people from all over the world ....from all walks of life..... and share tips and tricks and josh with all of them.....life's good :-)

AMEN
 

AMEN Ron! I agree! Marty

I just saw the last living WW1 US vet on the news.

I seem to see you Chilliwack guys somewhat regularly in the RC magazines. Now I know why!!! You guys are great builders. I need to get started again on my Nieuport 11. It's framed up, just needs finished. It's just a 33"ws though. Right now I'm finishing up my Piper Pawnee cropduster with a 62"ws. Electric of course. Steve

Hi, my name is Don and I have had a setback.
A so called friend has tempted me until I just had to have the plane he showed me.

I got a broken, beat up Nieuport 28 from K CLOSE. I almost have my Bristol M1C finished so I will be starting on the Nieuport soon. I hope to raise it from the dead and have it flying again.

Oh my goodness Don...every time you fall off the wagon, it hurts so much....then you have to pull yourself back onto it only to fall off again.....
I fixed that problem...I just aint ever gonna be on it any more...what's the sense? just gotta have my "fix" of WW1 models every so often....;-)
Steve: I don't think we're any better builders than any one else..we just may be a little more camera hoggish though that's all ..and we're noted for being on the cheapskate side when it comes to either buying for a dollar or spending a week to make it for 95 cents :-) Heck we still use brushed motors up here on larger models..even have some who are still using nicads :-)..oh yeah it's not cheap, it's what do they say?? "frugal" yeah that's it jock :-)

I like the word frugal, Ron. I wouldn't be able to do much if I didn't scrounge and skimp. I might not have the nicest planes, but I am learning from the masters here how to build better and cheaper. Each plane is a learning experience. So far there's always things to do better the next time.

i just finished the male mold for the cowl..here's a couple pics of it I made it out of that pink foam insulation board, then covered it with Monokote..tomorrow Hopefully I will be able to try fibreglassing it..then a little bit of sanding and smoothing, and presto..a cowl....

OOPSIE pics this time hopefully...... once laid up it will be trimmed to proper shape
oh and I finished the aluminum sheeting on the top forward section of the fuselage.

Ron looks great.

Colin

Will you be cutting the holes in the fiberglass after layup? Or are they in the mold also? Just wondering, 'cause it seems it might be easier to carve them in foam, then just glass over the details.

7...I will be trimming the front to shape after it's laid up..also will be cutting the holes after...last time I did a cowl, I tried to have it all exactly to shape and didn't leave any extra room for mistakes...so this time I made the front surface a little larger than it should be, and the cowl wraps around the front a little more than the finished product will be so that there's some room to "trim" to shape .....the center face of it will get cut out so that there's just a ring with the radius around the outside and then I will cut a very thin piece of aluminum sheeting for the center face this piece will have the "eyes" in it. then I intend to use tiny pop rivets to attach it to the cowl body.

Colin: thanks...
I'll have your box of D V11 parts with me on tuesday at the indoor thingy.

My Hero
 

Ron you're my Hero! Keep up the good work. Marty

got the cowl laid up this morning...it's looking like using the pink foam and monokote for a mold is gonna work...I just now made up a "jig" to put a line around the front of the cowl for a "cut" mark..I'll post photo's later if I get it off the mold today...should be ready in about another hour...trick I found seems to be to mix the resin "cold" ie not much hardener in it..then you have lotsa working time...the only draw back if you can call it that, is it has to remain on the plug for an extra hour or two....but it works up better..you get a smoother cleaner piece..and I don't think there's gonna be a lot of sanding......I will brush some gelcoat onto it, and that will give me a base to sand.

Its looking really good Ron!! Steve

Thanks Steve:
I finally figured out my wheels too today...made a "cutting jig" that splits the foam backing rod right down the middle slick as can be...so I made the wheels out of 1/4 " plywood ( aircraft grade) and made the cones for the outside shape from 8mm aircraft ply...then epoxied the cones onto the discs..then cut the center hole for the wheel hubs, then epoxied the hubs to the discs...next ( tomorrow) i'll drill the centers of the hubs to take a brass tube that slides over the 3/16" axles....cover the centers with red Monokote which I just happen to have on hand...just enough to do the job.....and glue one half of the foam backing rod on each side of the rims...
discovered that if I use 15 minute epoxy on the flat face, let it get almost cured, then press the foam onto it, once the epoxy cures, there's absolutely no way the foam is coming off you have to tear it off and it leaves pieces on the plywood....so the "tires" should stay on there.

Marty: you better get than 1/4 scale kit of yours out and BUILD IT UP... the DR 1 makes a great model.

Could some one give my some links to any foamie WW1 Plans?

Thanks for the help,
Pat

I use printed paper airplanes I find on the net to make my foam planes. If you glue the paper on the plane you don't even have to paint. I also use 3view as plans. If you would like some files of WW1 printed planes PM me with your email address and what planes you want and I will see if I have them. You can find free programs on the net to change plane to the size you want and tile print if on letter paper so you can tape it together for full size plan.

degreen.if in your travels through the miriad of WW1 airplanes, you happen to see one that is rare or rarely modeled, perhaps you would be kind enough to send it along, as you guys likely already know, I like stuff that's obscure....long as it has a round cowl :-)

Sopwith Dolphin
 

How about this plane Ron? I have a nice set of plans for it. It's very unusual and not modeled often. The plans are for a 400 size plane approx. 36" WS. Marty

http://images.barnesandnoble.com/ima...0/23609275.JPG

How about a square cowl with a rotating engine under it? If you would like this one I need your email address. The printed plane has the fuselage printed on paper but you could make the open frame work using bamboo skewers.